Tuesday, May 15, 2012

Activists in Bulgaria rally in support of Palestinian hunger strikers

As more and more days pass by from the ongoing mass hunger strike undertaken by more than 1,500 Palestinian political prisoners in the Israeli jails, names and pictures of the hunger strikers continue to adorn solidarity tents and weekly protests throughout the West Bank.
The solidarity with those starving for better conditions and justice in the Israeli jails has been increasing throughout the world as well. This week, the prisoners’ images along with slogans in solidarity and support with their hunger strike, found themselves the center of a demonstration in Bulgaria’s capital, Sofia.
Bulgaria is a country that has recognized the Palestinian state as far back as the year of 1988. The diplomatic relations between the two sides date even further back, to 1974. A considerable number of Palestinians live in the East European country today and it was the Palestinian community in Sofia that organized the solidarity demonstration with its starving for freedom brothers back home. Some locals, as well as members of the Kurdish community joined in. In total, more than fifty demonstrators gathered opposite the National Assembly building on the 10th of May. They chanted in Bulgarian “Long live Palestine” and “With no food, with no water we demand freedom!”. 

A video capturing some moments from the demonstration you can see: here (video by: Ruslan Trad).

Thursday, December 8, 2011

Sheikh Jerrah - @ the settlers' party

Not long after my arrival in the West Bank I had the following dream: Fred (my teammate) and I are in a madhouse on an undercover operation. We, the only sane patients in the madhouse, were to observe everything going on around us and then report about it (to whom, I don't know). It was a dream full of details: the faces of all the mad people that I have never seen in my waking life (as far as my awareness for that goes), the hectic screaming and running around, the behavior that overall didn’t make any sense. It didn't take me much pondering over the dream to interpret it. Here I am in that madhouse called Occupation and I need to report (blog) about it. I have the feeling of being undercover here too: having to play the role of the tourist, not being able to say I am a peace activist so that the Israelis would let me inside the country (NB: so that they would let me inside not in their country, but in the Palestinian territory they occupy militarily.

"Madhouse", sadly, turned out to be a very literal expression about what we saw two weeks ago…
Now picture the following situation: you build an addition to your house as your family gets bigger. As usually it is the case with such in Area C or East Jerusalem, they get demolished. Instead of this happening, in this very case, settlers (supported by the Israeli goverment) came and started living in the addition while the Palestinian family stayed in their old part of the house.
Currently the Jewish settlers and the Palestinian family share a house. In half of it (the back) dwells the Palestinian family, al-Kurdi, in the front  are the settlers. What used to be al Kurdi's family children playground in the front yard is now a space for barbeque for when the settlers have parties.


Internationals have been maintaining  presence in the yard by staying in the tent in the picture above: at first they had permanent presence, currently it's only during the night so that the Palestinian family would be able to at least sleep in somewhat of a peace. What makes the situation even more absurd is what these particular settlers are like. They are four guys who do nothing else but party wild, get drunk and then sleep during the day. No job, no anything, by the looks of it. It seems like they are not really living in the house but they're more like coming to hang out, occupy it. We suppose that the government is paying them to stay in the house to" hold the front" but that's just a guess to explain how they may have money to survive and buy all the alcohol. They have thrown everything you can think of at the internationals in the tent: urine, feces, throw- up, the last thing thrown few weeks ago had been bleach (how creative, I caught myself thinking). It seems like they are acting out all their hate on the internationals now so as long as we distract them from harassing the Palestinian family, our presence is worth the showering with all possible – literally – shit. The night me and Fred spent in the tent (together with two guys from Sweden) wasn't that eventful (thanks God, I have to say, as I wasn't carrying with me any spare pants or shoes). Whatever the settlers do to the internationals or the Palestinians is fine as far as consequences for them are concerned. Settlers are sort of immune in this country. We can call the police, they will come and things end there. There were two cameras installed to observe what happens above our tent: one by settles, the other by an Israeli Human Rights NGO: one in "our interest", one in "theirs". In any case our actions were closely watched, activists who had previously sprayed the house with pro-Palestinian graffiti had been arrested a month ago. Moreover, our presence is supposed to be peaceful: so if a settler spits on you for example, you have to turn your other cheek. He can do what he wants but if you respond in any way, you are the one in trouble, no matter who started it all.
The Swedish guys were spending something like 10th night in a row in the tent. They had a video of one of the settlers dancing a really surrealistic dance in his drunkenness in front of them few days ago. Fun. That night the settlers had few visitors, played some music loud, drank some alcohol but the party died out about 12 or so. It was turning out to be a freezing night although I had all possible clothes of mine on me. The youngest of the settlers stopped by to check on us. He had the ultra-right look: the black bonnet on and side-curls plus quite un insane look. He tried to engage us in a "conversation" with his really poor English. It consisted of the following: "Palestine" (pointing to the ground) "No-o-ooooo.", accompanied by a lot of ts ts ts and shaking head. "Israel? YEESSS". Then he tried to ask us if we really believed we were on Palestinian land. We ignored him. There was I though back to my dream with mad people. Now how do I "report" about this, how do you clothe this sort of madness into words? Then he came by to ask if we were sleepy, after if we were cold, etc. At some point he was looking really intently at me expecting an answer and I almost felt like talking to him, to give in to the hint of humanity in the situation. It's so difficult for me to picture that this very same guy standing in front of me is capable of such evil. And yet that was the very same one who settled in in someone else's house solely because God has ordained this land to him and the very same one who threw his shit at people. Exactly the same situation one can have in a madhouse: a guy who's acting friendly at one moment is raving mad at the next one and attacks you, now go match these two pictures into being done by the same person… The second guy, the one with the reported crazy dance moves (while dancing he would make an abrupt movement in your direction to scare you and etc.) didn’t visit us in the tent that night. He stood outside and stared silently at us on few occasions though. At some point during the night he kept on staring into what seemed to me to be my direction for about 5 minutes, a very intent stare at that. I continued chatting with the others ignoring him. Then out of nowhere he interrupted his meditative state only to snap: "Fuck you!", turn around and go away.
The rest of the night was just as freezing. Settlers slept very late but quit their visits to our tent. The Palestinian family I saw only at 6:30 in the morning. The Swedish had left at 5 something, I had fallen asleep on the chair at about 4 finally, Fred was sleeping as well on a bed nearby when I woke up by the passing-by al Kurd family. They had to walk by the settlers' part of the house in order to exit. They had also to walk through our tent. Imagining what kind of a struggle it must be for this family to have anything like a normal life in view of all the circumstances is way beyond my abilties.

Sunday, November 13, 2011

The bits of evil carefully weighted out in advance

Two days after the demonstration in Kufr Qaddum this Friday I am sitting here trying to analyze what exactly it is that happened there that made out of this event a turning point for me. Writing a post reflecting upon my little traumas here seems a very selfish deed when it’s pasted unto the broad picture of what Palestinians have been going through for a lifetime or more.

Up to this point I have been trying very hard to find some logic in the Israeli policies in Occupied Palestine, even if they are all wrong to me; to dig under it all in search for some human impulses buried in there, to try to "balance" myself. In the meantime it’s very easy to concentrate on blaming the settlers for it all and forget about the fact that it’s the Israeli government that stands behind them. Yes, the Israeli government does destroy a settlement occasionally and this goes all over the news and they patch up like this what would have been otherwise a too bad of a world opinion. The on-the-ground situation speaks of a very different picture though: the settlement’s fences move down few meters every now and then, ever so slowly they steal more and more land. It’s not done in a sudden and shocking manner, no, it happens in a very stealthy and sneaky way, bit by bit. Then the settlers burn the land around the settlement so that the Palestinian owner gives it up at some point or is too afraid to step foot on it; thus this land is taken over too. The settlements are everywhere in the West Bank now and they keep on growing, it’s so disheartening, so depressing to observe. I have been here for two months and yet I could already witness their growth myself: what was empty land the last time is all built up in a couple of days the next week you are there. But here I got carried away, it was the army I wanted to talk about and here I deviated from the topic exactly as I predicted.

What was it that “woke me up” during this Friday demonstration? I did very well know that coming here as a peace activist and going to demonstrations against the Occupation, against the Wall or anything against the policies of the Israeli government may lead to me being detained. Hearing an international like me was detained along with a Palestinian should not have been that shocking.

Israel has two different law systems when it comes to people detained (and then they argue they are not an Apartheid state!). Until 2002 there was Civil System that was valid for Israelis and Internationals alike. Then the Separation Barrier was built separating the West Bank from Israel. The international solidarity movement with the Palestinians grew and as more and more internationals started to demonstrate along with Palestinians, a certain "Ministry of Interior" had to be created in order to deal solely with these internationals-Rachel Corries. Thus internationals fall now into a third legal system, in between the Palestinians and the Israelis. They can be detained for 24 hours, after which their case should go the civil court and it doesn’t because there are no ground for them to be detained in the first place. Nothing like that happens to Palestinians. They can be detained with no charges pressed against them (Administrative Detention) for indefinite period of time. Whatever the case, internationals today are privileged in occupied Palestine. It feels unfair to be treated differently than any other human being and at the same time it’s difficult not to take use of this privilege by being here and protesting against it.

Seeing "one of us” gettng detained and knowing it could have been me, the brutality in the Occupational army's shutting down our protest this Friday, getting gassed more than what I'm used to, all of this made me finally open my eyes a little: there was nothing "human" in any of this and I'd better stop digging for it or trying to understand any "other side". Here's a video of the two arrests that took place: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=grli-nG_g-o&feature=player_embedded

I also felt left out in how vulnerable I felt after the demonstration; everyone seemed to be doing fine emotionally while I was in a wreck of state for the rest of the day. Whoever got arrested, Palestinian and International alike, was taken away in jeeps. Whoever got injured, or inhaled too much tear gas, was taken away in ambulance. The rest of us went to the lunch organized in advance to commemorate the memory of Yasser Arafat.

Everyone had moved on. I was sitting next to a Palestinian man and he was trying to make me eat, rolling the musakhan for me and shoveling it in my hands. In the same moment an activist received a message from the international arrested saying soldiers had just taken turns to hit him. They spat on the Palestinian man and made him crouch with his head between his legs. And here we were, having lunch. How could that be? Then I looked around at the faces around me. The man who made the sandwich for me had been in prison for 8 years. Another one had been released not a long time ago after a year in prison. The rest knew they could be arrested for asking for their rights anytime as well. The other internationals had more experience than me, they all already knew. Nobody was about to sit there and get depressed. Palestinians get arrested all the time. As to the international: yes, they may beat him up a little, but it won’t be anything serious. It’s like moving your fence down the road to steal more land: nobody hears about it because it’s done with measure. They weren’t going to beat him up severely so that a big story comes out after this and the media roars with reports about it. All evil is done in a cold well-measured and well-thought manner.



Saturday, November 12, 2011

Visiting Amal Jumaa, one of the prisoners released as part of the Israeli-Palestinian prisoners swap

After the demonstration at Kufr Qaddum yesterday we joined ISM activists for a visit to former Palestinian prisoner in Nablus hospital. Amal Jumaa belonged to Fatah’s armed wing and was sentenced to eleven years of which she served nine. She was released three weeks ago during the deal Hamas and Israel reached on Oct. 11 for the prisoners swap.

Amal gained a lot of publicity and media attention after going on a hunger strike two days ago. She took this decision after the Palestinian Authority failed to provide her with any appropriate treatment for her cancer of the uterus condition. More information about this can be found at: http://www.maannews.net/eng/ViewDetails.aspx?ID=435876

The history of Amal’s neglected health condition goes much further back though, to the time she was imprisoned. She was diagnosed with cancer of the uterus back in 2004 and her condition went about neglected while she was in both Ramleh and HaSharon prisons for whole six years. We asked if she was given anything after she had been diagnosed. “Water”, was her reply. And some light pain-killers similar to Panadol. As her condition became graver, she was administered some drops too. They had strong side effects such as constant drowsiness and what was described as fits of madness: pulling her hair, yelling. The director of the prison declared she was fine. Amal’s inmate decided to prove that her behavior was due to side-effects from the drops and she started taking them herself; her behavior got bizarre in the same way and she slept through her days as well. A hunger strike was started by other female inmates in the same prison asking for Amal to be treated. It lasted for 4 weeks and 4 days. Amal was finally taken to a hospital in Haifa and was operated. This was in the year of 2010. She was handcuffed the whole time while in hospital and was allowed no visits at all, included by the Red Cross. After the operation she got transferred to Damun prison. Her condition wasn't any better and a profound bleeding was added to it now. Once again she was not treated and was drugged instead. Amal started sending letters to friends and media asking for help from outside. The PA Ministry of Prisoners’ Affairs provided her with 4000 shekels for 4 months so she could buy pads to take care of the bleeding.

Amal was released among 27 female prisoners in the deal with Gilad. Fifteen days ago she collapsed and was taken to the hospital in Nablus. Even after freedom had been granted to her, she still had to resort to hunger strike to receive her right to a proper treatment. Now the President himself is making sure she is to be sent to a hospital abroad where she can receive the necessary treatment after the many years of neglect in prison. There have been delays in her travel due to the days off because of the Eid and delays in her having a passport issued to travel. A report from a hospital in Amman will determine the location she is to be taken to one of these days – it could be in Jordan or somewhere in Europe.

Amal was visibly tired during our visit. Most of her story was related to us by a friend of hers, she herself had no voice to speak and was constantly slipping into drowsiness. All of her upper front teeth have been taken out during her imprisonment and she showed us where they used to be in her mouth. She managed to stand up and shake our hands when we walked in and also pose for a picture with us. I hope she is on her way to a hospital where she can finally be helped now... This is the sole "hope" after all the injustices done to someone named "Hope" (Amal in Arabic).

Friday, November 11, 2011

Tear-gassed like never before: today, Kafr Qaddum

I came back from the demonstration at Kafr Qaddum few hours ago completely smashed and broken-hearted. I still have no words to describe what happened today neither report about it. I was hoping I would be able to share a video or upload a picture that would tell at least part of the story but it turned out I hadn't taken any that would transfer even a bit of it:my videos consist of random things while running and show nothing much but my panic and so do my pictures as well.

Today, exactly seven years after the death of the father of the Palestnian nation, Yasser Arafat, the weekly demonstration at Karf Qaddum was completely crushed. We were teargassed like never before and I still don't have exact information how many people got injured. What I saw was houses getting tear-gassed and a child being taken out one of them vomitting. I saw a man who had been hit by a canister in the eye. At this point I didn't care about taking pictures, it felt inhumane. I took in so much tear-gas that I started to choke and felt like I could not walk anymore. My mind almost tried to trick me to sit down and give up at that point.

An ISM activist we had shared a drink with few minutes ago was arrested along with a Palestinian man.

Each demonstration gets more and more violent. It starts to become clear they are trying to disheart us. This time running inside the village didn't feel safe; soldiers walked further inside than any time before and gassed the mosque, the usual place for taking refugee for us. Three of them stood aside on the hillside so they could shoot tear gas from there inside the village as well; sound bombs were heard as well.

After the demonstration was over we had lunch to commemorate the anniversary from Arafat's death and local Palestinians and internationals ate together musakhan , a tasty Palestinian dish. Yes, the demonstration was crushed, yes, so was I, but the Palestinian spirit had endured.

During the meal a message from the ISMer who got arrested was received saying soldiers were taking turns hitting him. The Palestinian was spat on and made to crouch with his head between his legs. There's a video of the ISMer getting arrested; he says he can't feel his wrists because they put the handcuffs on too tight. I will share this one as soon as it's uploaded online by ISM. A precise report on what happened today should be posted on MPT's blog as well soon, once I am back to something like myself.

Found pictures featuring my humble personality and my teammate in this news report in Arabic, if you could read it or wish to see the pictures:

Thursday, November 10, 2011

Growing up under Occupation: in between game and reality


“One needs to spend at least two years here in order to get to know the situation in the West Bank well”, I was told few days ago by a local human rights activist. I have spent only two months. Most of the time I feel like I am in a place caught in the impossible, it just feels surrealistic. And my mind simply refuses to assimilate it. Often it takes me few days before I am capable of hearing my thoughts and then verbalizing my experiences here. During this time I find myself overloaded with people’s stories of suffering with no means to release them; I guess it will take me some time to “get used” to the situation here and have it not exhaust me mentally as much. Every family I get to interact with throughout the day has a story to tell: a settler’s attack they experienced, a family member missing or imprisoned, episodes of violence. What strikes me the most about it all is that these stories are usually not told intentionally. It’s not like we meet a family and they find it necessary to tell us about their troubles because they know we are internationals and we should be “educated” about the situation here. Instead their stories often come up unexpectedly in the course of the conversation; sometimes I hear them even by chance. It feels like they are part of the ordinary discourse and the ordinary life, nothing that really stands out in people’s memories and yet they are painful. Pain doesn’t stand out because it was always here. I guess this is what happens when you grow up under Occupation.

Two days ago we were back to Deyr Istya picking olives. Around noon the settlement’s security called the farmer and told him to leave the land (his land!) in five minutes because he didn’t have permission from the army to pick that day. He refused to leave. Then the army called and ordered him to leave once more. This time he complied. We had only three trees left to finish harvesting on this land. Half an hour more might have sufficed. “No, you have only five minutes, you can come back another day but now you have to go”. It didn’t make any sense… It was clear they just wanted to fool around. Leave now, but come at another time. Just so. And so we left. The settlement’s security car escorted us from distance as we walked away from the land not having had time to collect the olive bags off the land (a donkey was needed for that matter since we could not use the settler’s road that was nearby). It’s hard to describe how humiliating obeying this guy’s whim felt. Any interferring from us, the internationals, could have escalated the situation and created additional trouble for this family and so we did nothing. As we all got in the car, I listened to the conversation between the 4-year old that had witnessed the whole story and the 3-year old that had come with his brother to pick us up who didn’t know what had happened (the guys in the picture below).

The 4 year old explained that we had seen the “Bitachon” which would be the Hebrew word for “settlement security”. “Oh, is this like police?”, asked the 3 year old, eyes wide open. The 4-year old clarified this is different; these ones had M-16. “But you should not be afraid of them, you should just shake hands with them, this is what I do”, instructed the 4-year old knowledgeably and obviously proud of being the older one who knew the ropes. And indeed, this is the little guy whom I have seen myself greeting soldiers and “Bitachons” alike with not the slightest sign of fear. He did that today and the settlement security actually smiled, as shocking as this was. Now I just want to mention my ignorance in order for a comparison to be made between me and him: I learnt the Hebrew word for "security" and the fact that he had M16 from that very conversation, I had no clue about these details before.

Later I witnessed the pretend-game those two had. One of them pointed a gun toy at the other one’s head yelling rudely “Go!” and the other one followed the orders.They went around their yard a couple of times in this manner: “Go”, “Stop”, “Go”, “Stop”… At some point the boy with the gun pointed at his head got tired of the game and dropped out of it for which he was punished by being “shot”.

I myself keep on getting shot numerous times during the day by random kids playing with their toy guns, pointing them at me from cars passing by or while I'm walking by them in the street.

Yesterday we were picking olives again, this time at a different location, close to an army camp. A bit after we started working we saw two soldiers approaching us from the road. They were pointing their guns at us in a squatting position hiding behind a bush. They were such a ridiculous and absurd sight, it felt like an episode from some movie they must have seen and were enacting. After all, we were just picking olives, tarps on the ground and all, what were they doing, did they think we were a threat indeed? I couldn’t help but wave at them, it was my spontaneous reaction, I guess I did it to invoke some reality back to this situation. They returned later in their military jeep and ordered us to leave the land; we didn’t have permission to pick that day they said. The family actually did have permission but an oral not a written one and they couldn’t prove it so for about half an hour the soldiers would come, then go back and argue with us.
the military jeep stopping by
Usually we(activists) don’t interfere in such situation unless being asked to do so by the Palestinians we are with. This time I asked them if they minded me talking to the soldiers and the family welcomed the idea. Initially it was two soldiers, then more came, I started worrying this might get ugly as the family seemed determined to stay just as much as the soldiers were determined to make us leave. We had learned earlier in the day that three members from this family had been arrested after trying to plow this same land last year and questioned for 6 hours: what were they doing close to a military base without having sought permission first. I would say it must have been obvious: they were plowing their land. One of the soldiers seemed to really like his job. He asked us if we had taken pictures of them, then when we said we hadn’t, he yelled at my teammate Fred not to lie to him. During this conversation the youngest boy from the family(aged around 7) would stay really close to the soldiers and look at them and their guns up close with big curious eyes until an adult from the family would pull him back. I was observing one of those soldiers-teenagers (not more than 18 in age) if he would start feeling uncomfortable from us trying to obviously keep the kid away from him and maybe lower his gun that was almost in the kid’s face; he didn’t do anything of the kind. The whole story ended with another van of soldiers arriving, these ones happened to know of the permission the family had to be there that day and we were left alone and continued working eventually. I asked the boy’s father how come his kid wasn’t afraid of the soldiers and their guns. He answered: “Well, you know, we just had the Eid”[Eid al-Adha, Festival of Sacrifice, a big muslim holiday]. “Every Palestinian kid received a toy gun as a present. It’s all about war here. They are not afraid of guns”. So the soldier’s gun is like a toy to them? I wondered.

When leaving the land this day we were stopped by a flying checkpoint; soldiers were standing at the road stopping cars and checking documents, there were about 5 of them. One of them stood off the road and seemed to be entertained playing with a scope his gun had: he pointed it at different objects in order to look at them up close . There was nothing important he could possibly look at nearby, he was pointing it at random things, just as a kid playing with his toy indeed. A 18-19 year-old Israeli boy who have been given a gun and was playing around with it.

Saturday, November 5, 2011

A visit to Balata Refugee Camp


The olive harvest is finished and we find ourselves with much more free time on our hands and can actually visit places and travel a bit. Few days ago we went to visit Balata Refugee camp which is adjacent to Nablus. Balata is the biggest refugee camp in the West Bank in terms of population. More than 25 000 people are crammed in the area of just one square kilometer(used to be 0.25km2). The camp was created in 1950 after the Nakba or what is the Catastrophe of 1948 for the Palestinians, the year when Israel was established as a state. Palestinian villages that were in the territory of what is nowadays Israel were depopulated and destroyed. Thousands of people became permanent refugees or "internally displaced" inside their own country. Most of the inhabitants of Balata came from Jaffa and surrounding villages or what is now Tel Aviv.

We found this graffiti across from Jacob’s well depicting the history of the camp’s creation:








The happy life Jaffa inhabitants lived before the Nakba

Leaving home...

The UN camp is built or what is to become Balata

The hope to return... Some people do keep the keys from their homes still and hope to be able to return one day. MPT has recored one of the many cases like this: http://mptinpalestine.blogspot.com/2010/05/nakba-and-balata-refugee-camp.html

After a short walk along the camp’s tiny streets we visited Yafa Cultural Center, a NGO inside the camp that organizes activities for its residents. We talked with the staff about the situation in the camp today. They told us a bit of the camp’s history and joked: “What was once tents has become sky-skapers today”. At first residents of the camps were hoping they would be able to return to their villages and refused to accept the idea about any permanent housing; gradually they lost hope and started building concrete houses. Because of the lack of space and the natural growth of the population the houses had to grow horizontally, in place of the spot previously occupied by the tents. There was no space to spare for streets and therefore only very narrow passages came to exist in between the buildings. The lack of space yielded and keeps on yielding a lot of social issues, children are especially affected and they're quite hyperactive.


The main problem today is poverty though. While about 60% of the Balata residents used to work in Israel before the First Intifada this is no longer the case now; the camp went through hell and was basically turned into a prison while occupied by the army during both of the Intifadas. As the checkpoints throughout the West Bank got eased two years ago residents are able to move more freely and gain some economical stability but there’s still 40% of an unemployment rate.


As all oppressed people, people in the camp are avidly interested in politics, in particular in any developments on the political scene concerning the refugee's right to return. At this point our conversation itself deviated towards politics too. It has been more than 60 years of a life as refugees... All these years their life has been and still is at a standstill, there has been no change whatsoever. They last witnessed the Arab Spring, they have seen the world shift and yet nothing happens over here. Our new Yaffa friend himself says he has made many presentations on the refugee issue but sees no point in talking anymore; it hasn’t given any fruits. He said he has always been moderate in his political beliefs and will continue to be but doesn’t see the use in it anymore as well.
"The chain shall certainly break", reads the Arabic
A social worker from Germany was present in the room during this conversation. She said she was here to supervise the construction of a sponsored by the German government mental health clinic in the camp. She seemed very tired as well. They both agreed everyone in the camp needed some psychological assistance and they were about to start running different programs assisting the camp population but this wasn’t a solution to any problem, it was only patching, addressing the symptoms but not the cause. A political solution was needed: one state, no occupation, freedom...

We took more time to walk around the camp, this time we went deeper into the little passageways in between the houses. Children, the main population of this camp, would come out around every corner and demand attention; they don’t see foreigners walking around often. “What’s your name, how are you”, all of them demanded. They were really nice and sweet but from time to time there was a tangible feeling of hyper-activeness in the air, a slight hint of what could easily be ignited to aggressiveness. I tried to disarm them with my utmost abilities for a calm and peaceful presence, smiles and attention and they indeed stayed friendly. We talked to a store owner and his younger friend, they had us sit with them and treated us some candy. They told us about a army raid of both their homes two nights ago. The younger man was doing most of the talking; the store owner looked visibly depressed. I asked the later if I could write a report about the army raid of his house but he said he didn’t want to talk, he was afraid. We met few kids who insisted they wanted to show us something; they took us to the nearby archaeological site of Tell Balata and we spent a lot of time chatting with them there. One of them, a ten year old, asked us if we also had Jewish army in the streets where we lived. On parting the boys asked us for money and were visibly disappointed with the small change we gave them; they wanted to buy a football ball.

I was deadly tired after spending those hours in the camp and I caught myself appreciating the abundance of space we had in Huwwara aftarwards, when walking in the street...